Day 5Warner Springs, California

I finally decide to make the detour to Julian to solve my pack problem. With 3 other hikers, I get a ride from a water cache near the road. At the gear shop, I try several models and choose a 55-liter Hyperlite. It is not exactly a planned expense, but the difference is immediate. My back still hurts a little, but it is nothing like the 1st few days.

Julian looks like a small western town, with a main street, saloon-style storefronts and hikers everywhere. I top up my resupply, eat a burger and enjoy the famous slice of apple pie offered to PCT hikers. The welcome is particularly generous. Locals spontaneously offer fruit or a ride.

I head back out with Laurence, a Québécoise accustomed to long bicycle journeys. She prepared and dehydrated 1 month of meals herself, which will be mailed to her along the route. In the evening, we meet Uncle Bob, his niece and several other hikers at a large campsite. One of them presents a hiker-tracking app he developed: “Hiker Catch”. The wind shakes the tents throughout the night.

The next morning, we hike a few more miles together before parting ways at a water cache. Later, near Warner Springs, I discover my 1st real trail magic: coolers and drinks left for hikers by trail angels we meet a little farther on.